Ten helpful tips on how to read and follow a pattern.

What follows was an email I sent to one of the moms who has participated with her daughter in the sewing classes and wanted to know how to read and understand a pattern. (The parts in italics reference experiences we had in class.)

1. When choosing a size, go by the child’s measurements, not by the size of garment you buy for them in ready-to-wear. Measurements for each size are found on the back of the pattern envelope - usually near the top.

2. If a pattern says it is for knit fabric, it will not fit if you make it in a woven fabric. This is because woven fabric doesn’t stretch.

3.  It’s definitely a good idea to read all the steps in a pattern's instructions before you begin. …kind of like reading a recipe all the way through before beginning something you haven’t cooked/baked before. (The problem we had with the bag that S. was making, was that we didn’t read all the way through first and were trying to ‘wing’ it as we went along, and even thinking we could do it differently without knowing all the facts.)

When the kids want to make something and I haven’t had a chance to study it ahead of time, I am more likely to make a mistake in guiding them along. That’s why I like to make a sample first, not just so they can see it made up, but so I can experience the pitfalls that they are likely to face and help them to avoid them.

 4.       Take something you have already made and read the instructions again. You will see how the sequence of steps now make sense and you will be able to visualize what they are telling you to do.  

(For example you could download the pattern for the penguin pillow that E. made. and see if you understand the instructions. If you don’t understand something, see if E. remembers what she did at that point.)

 5.       A good pattern includes good illustrations, so if you don’t understand the text, check out the illustrations. They often give a clue as to what the designer means.

 6.    Every skill has its own terms and definitions.  Learn definitions of sewing terms – or know where to find them when you need them. The problem with commercial patterns is that they are usually NOT written with children in mind, so they are wordy or use technical language. A glossary or explanation of terms is very helpful. Sometimes a pattern comes with these explanations.

If you look in E.’s first ‘Kids Sewing Company’ workbook where she made the pyjama shorts and top, you will find a glossary at the back.  

7.      Read everything on the pattern pieces too, not just the instruction sheets. Cutting out your pattern pieces correctly is very important, as you don’t always have a second chance to fix mistakes in cutting. For example, you find out later you should have cut 4 pieces and you only cut two, but now you have run out of fabric. Most patterns pieces always tell you right on the paper pattern how many pieces to cut. 

8.  If you have a right and a left side and only one pattern piece for both, it’s best to double your fabric so you don’t make the mistake of cutting 2 left sides or 2 right sides -something that can easily happen if you cut the pattern piece twice on a single layer of fabric.  Also check to see if something is to be placed on a fold (this was my mistake when I cut the belt for S.’s doll jacket – the belt should have been twice as long).

9.  Before you sew, check the pattern instructions to see how wide to make your seam allowances. Most garments use 15mm. seam allowances and many non-wearables like toys, or home décor items use 6-7mm seam allowances.

10. Make the same pattern more than once. When you make a recipe the second or third time you often make small improvements, and the second time you’ll also be much more confident that you’ll have good results.

Last year I needed to buy an extra sewing  machine. I had two criteria.
It should be able to sew a one-step automatic buttonhole and should also have a speed control that would allow it to go MUCH slower than was possible on the basic machines where the only control is the foot pedal. 
 
This meant it had to be a computerized model. Another feature was an automatic needle up or down setting, so no more turning of the hand wheel for this purpose.
And no more accidental pulling out of the needle thread when they started out sewing again with the needle still on its way up from the last time. The children loved it. But, since I only had one, most of them still had to sew on the basic machines. 
 
A few weeks ago, I decided to reinvest some more  of my sewing earnings on another computerized machine. This one has a few additional features.
It can also be set to sew nice and slow, (note the slider) but it won’t even start unless the presser foot is DOWN. Guess how many times my beginners engage the foot control before they remember to lower the presser foot! The results are big nests of thread under the fabric
 
The new machine also has a button to push that cuts the thread and raises the needle (they love that) and an
automatic bobbin threading feature, so… no more fishing to bring up the bobbin thread.

Oh, by the way, the slower sewing has allowed some of my more experienced
students (terms two and three) to sew the tiny seams that are called for on stuffed toys
and other non-wearable items. And the 'needle down' position makes pivoting much easier.

They’ve been working on penguin pillows, stuffed elephants, and piece-work bags.
Actually the lined, stripped piece-work bag was also successfully sewn by a six
and a half year old beginner. It was her fourth project after a baby
blanket, a drawstring bag, and a pair of pyjama shorts.
 

This  week we had the last sewing classes before Christmas.
Now is the time to  reserve a spot for your children for January.

Presently I am planning for classes on Mondays, Wednesdays and  Thursdays. 
Mondays: 2pm – 3:15pm … 2 spots left
Mondays: 4pm – 5:15pm … 3 spots left
Wednesdays: 2pm – 3:15pm… 2 spots left 
Wednesdays: 4pm – 5:15pm (Questionable. I’d like to fill Mon. at 4pm first)
Thursdays: 4pm -5:15pm… 1 spot left

I am starting my 6th semester of teaching sewing to kids. I started early in 2011 and have completed two semesters each year since, as well as two summer camps.

I have learned so much! 

I have learned how to find students, but mostly they have found me.

I have learned that not all children learn the same way. (I knew that, but now I know it again.) I have learned that some can learn simply by reading the written directions and following them. Others could care less about written instructions and just want to be shown every step. And some would just like to venture out on what feels right, but unfortunately sewing that way is not very forgiving.

I have learned that four students is the optimal size for a class of kids.

I have learned that a two-hour class is more challenging than my usual 75 minute one, but that in the early days they also really want to finish a project each time they come.

I have learned a few tricks to make it easier for them to understand certain concepts. For instance when a little one is supposed to bring up the bobbin thread, and she just sits there blankly and looks at her machine;  I say, "Get your fishing rod and catch a fish". She immediately moves into action, grabbing the needle thread in one hand (her left, if she remembers) and turning the hand wheel with the other until her 'fish' - the loop of bobbin thread - comes up through the hole in the needle plate.

I have learned to search the internet to find out how to do things or to find projects that are simple enough for a child to learn.

I have learned how to set up my home sewing studio so it's an inviting place to be, but also in such a way that I can put everything away (including tables) with a limited amount of effort when we need the space for family gatherings and other events.

I have learned that I have a very supportive and encouraging husband who has absolutely no interest in sewing but listens to me anyway when I go on and on about something exciting in (what someone else has dubbed) my "shiny, happy world".

In Part One we got to the place where the children knew what the main parts of the sewing machine were for, and could use that information to practise by sewing on lined paper. But the real deal is to sew with thread; and that means knowing how to install the thread from spool to needle and beyond. (Note: sewing on paper dulls needles, so use an old needle when sewing on paper and put in a new one to sew on fabric.)

This post has four sections:
A. Winding the thread on the BOBBIN.
B. Loading the BOBBIN into the machine.
C. Threading the top thread from spool to NEEDLE. 
D. Pulling up the BOBBIN thread to meet the NEEDLE thread.
If your child already knows how to thread a machine they may just need to be reminded about how to pull up the BOBBIN THREAD. Take them directly to Section D  for that part.

I make sure my students all know how to thread their machines (rather than doing it for them) because they will be doing this each time they come to class, and sometimes in between when they change thread colours, etc. It is part of knowing how to sew independently.
The first few times they will probably forget the sequence and need help, but after a couple of times, they do it pretty well automatically, like the pros they are becoming. 

Here's "the how to" - Using words most kids can understand:
 Hand sewing needs only an ordinary needle and a thread, but In order to sew on a sewing machine, you need two threads; one at the top and one underneath. These threads have to follow a special path so they can meet at the right place and get together to make a stitch. 

2. When the spool is on the SPOOL PIN, take the end of the thread and pull some of it off the spool. On many machines  there is a shiny screw-like thread guide on the top, near the left side. Pull the thread to the left and around this guide. This puts some tension on the thread if it is lodged under the screw properly.
​If you also have another thread guide close by, put the thread through that one first before snapping it under the                                                         the tension screw.

 . On my machine the BOBBIN WINDER SPINDLE
is a shiny short pin at the top of the machine near the right. (See your  manual if you don’t see it there.) 
4. Still holding onto the thread end, give the BOBBIN WINDER SPINDLE, with the BOBBIN on it, a good solid  push so they move over to the right, closer to the HAND WHEEL. This will make the spindle spin when you step on the FOOT PEDAL. You can see the oblong shaped hole next to the SPINDLE that allows it to move to the right.  (If your needle goes up and down while you  are winding, check your manual to see if you also have to pull out or loosen the HAND WHEEL a little ways.) See the previous photo with the complete view again. It shows the thread going from the spool to the left around the tension screw and then to the right where the bobbin is on the S​PINDLE.
5. Keep holding the tail end of the thread. Now step on the FOOT PEDAL and start winding the BOBBIN. After a little while, stop and snip off the tail of thread (the one you were
holding onto) close to the top of the BOBBIN. Then start winding again.
Make sure the thread winds evenly onto the BOBBIN, and not underneath it. Sometimes just putting your finger under the thread in front of the BOBBIN at the beginning, helps this problem.
6. When the BOBBIN  is fairly full, stop and cut the thread an inch or  two from the BOBBIN. 
7.. Slide the BOBBIN WINDER SPINDLE and the  BOBBIN back to the left. (This allows your needle to go up and down again and keeps the BOBBIN WINDER from spinning. ) 
8.Take the BOBBIN off the WINDER SPINDLE. (If you had to pull out or loosen the HANDWHEEL earlier, you will have to push it in again or tighten it now.)

The BOBBIN  is placed underneath  the NEEDLE PLATE at the bottom left side of the machine. Sometimes it is also called the 'throat plate'.  The NEEDLE PLATE is the shiny flat part around the FEED DOGS. It has a hole in it where the needle goes up and down. This is where the stitches are made and this is where both threads have to meet. Keep reading to see how to do this.

B. Loading the BOBBIN into the  machine (The following describes how to load a top-loading bobbin. If you have a front-loading bobbin, skip down to see instructions for front-loading bobbins.)

  1. Make sure the PRESSER FOOT LIFTER is up and
  2. The spool of thread is on the SPOOL PIN followed by the end cap.
   3. Pull the thread to the left and under the first THREAD GUIDE at the top of the machine. Follow the machines
instructions or numbers. (There is a number 1 on my machine here)

4. The TAKE-UP LEVER- the one that looks a bit like the head of a goose. It goes  up and down when the needle goes up and down. Its job is to pull the thread tight after each stitch. (More on that later.)  Turn the  hand wheel and watch the take-up lever go up and down. 

5. The FEED DOGS . The needle goes into a hole between them. (my pointer is touching one of them.) They look like the tracks of a toy bulldozer or army tank. Their job is to grab your fabric and pull it through the sewing machine. Turn the hand wheel again and watch  the feed dogs. They go up and down and  backwards each time the wheel turns. (I took the presser foot off for this picture so the feed dogs would be easier to see.
6.The BACK STITCH LEVER or Button. (not pictured) .
If you can’t find it, look in your sewing machine’s manual. Get ready to turn the hand wheel again but first hold down the back stitch lever or button with the other hand. It’s a little awkward, but do it so you can watch the feed dogs. They now go in the opposite direction. This makes them pull the fabric towards you, making the machine stitch backwards.  When you let the lever go, it stitches forwards again. (On some machines the back stitch lever works by pushing it up. 

7. The PRESSER FOOT. This is a little foot on the sewing machine that is just above the feed dogs.
The foot you use most often has two toes, and looks like a pair of skis. Its job is to hold the fabric against the feed dogs so they can do their job. 
It only works when you lower it, so… here’s your chance to “put your foot down!”

Most machines also come with extra feet. They look different and help you do different things.

Because of time constraints and the size of the class, I omitted numbers 6, 9 & 10. But, everyone tried out the parts on their sewing machine as we went along and finally we were ready to sew.
Since they still didn't know how to thread the machine, they practised what they had just learned by sewing straight lines on paper
Then they learned how to thread the machine, and to sew on fabric.
I will cover how to thread a machine in my next post.
The little booklets (one  for each child) called “Learn to Use the  Sewing Machine” are  available from“Directions” at www.showmesew.com 

While looking for ideas for my fashion show, I Googled my
theme, “Made by Me” and found a book by that name. It seemed perfect for a  small person to enjoy some hand-sewing time so I ordered it. I loved the little  projects and clear instructions, so I decided to send it to my granddaughter  for her seventh birthday.

 But I didn’t just send the book, I assembled and sent
things she would need, in order to do some of the projects.  This is what I remember including: 
- about 8 skeins of craft yarn in different colours; 
- a small felt needle book I had made,
   with several large eye needles and a few pins inside  the pages;
- a small embroidery hoop;
- a drawstring bag filled with buttons;
- a half a yard of fun fabric with little dogs all over it;
- several pieces of felt in various colours and a little bit of polyester stuffing.
I knew she had scissors at home so I didn’t include a pair.
I also cut out a small white felt owl to which I had already sewn some buttons for eyes.. All she had to do was hand sew the front and back of the owl together at the edges, push in the stuffing just before she was done, and then sew the hole shut. That was the first project she did and after that you couldn’t stop  her. 
She saw a decorated T-shirt in the book and she found one
of her own and sewed buttons around the neckline, and also stitched some  embroidery along the hem. 
Her other grandma was coming for a visit and she decided she wanted to make a needle
book for her like the one I had sent along. She needed a little help knotting
the end of her thread, but then got busy and sewed on the button; attached some
yarn to wrap around the button as a fastener, and sewed down the center to
make a spine and attach a double page inside.

Here she is with her button-decorated shirt and the
finished needle book.
Do you think she looks proud of herself? She also sewed
her skirt on my sewing machine when she
visited our house one weekend. 
Tutorial for this skirt can be found at http://www.ikatbag.com/2010/04/how-to-sew-skirt-when-you-are-5-years.html

A team of women from our church went to another country and reported that the ladies there had taken the motors off their electric sewing machines,  and converted them to treadle machines.
I was amazed. "Why would they do that?" I wondered.
But it made perfect sense when I realized that their source of electricity was off as often as it was on.
But there are times when even a treadle machine is not the answer... like when you are a child who needs adult supervision while using mom's machine, but mom isn't always available every time you want to create something. The solution is needle and thread.
This summer I offered to teach a few girls in my class how to hand sew. We'll learn how to sew things onto fabric, like buttons and snaps and maybe even sequins and beads.
Then there are  ways of stitching two pieces of fabric together with special seams that were used all the time before the sewing machine. And what if you want to make a stuffie with a face embroidered on it? Or you want to embellish the very plain top you made in class earlier with some cute outline drawings.
To see how far I could take hand sewing, I embarked on this project of sewing a lined zipper pouch without ever using my sewing machine. It was a fun and relaxing process and didn't turn out too badly.